Showing posts with label 3. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 3. Show all posts
Tuesday, 21 March 2017
3 Masted Bark Design 2334
Rod Stephens was incredibly involved with the S.E.A. (Sea Education Association) program. He provided technical expertise to one of their existing fleet, the tall ship Corwith Cramer. This knowledge and enthusiasm for the type led to the design of the 3-masted bark you see here. Unfortunately, the boat was never built but the design is interesting nonetheless. I think it's a fine looking vessel.
General ArrangementPrincipal Dimensions
LOA 157'-0"
LWL 130'-0"
Beam 27'-0"
Draft 10'-6"
LOA 157'-0"
LWL 130'-0"
Beam 27'-0"
Draft 10'-6"
Sunday, 5 March 2017
3 piece boat plans
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Foto Results 3 piece boat plans
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Friday, 24 February 2017
17th Century Kayak Paddle Replica Part 3
I've been steadily working on the 17th Century Kayak Paddle Replica begun at the beginning of May. The blades have all been shaved down to the appropriate thickness and the oval shaped shaft has been sanded down. With the paddle wetted and re-sanded, it was time to begin the decoration.
Shaving completed; Wetting the grain
The group requesting this for their retiring principal wanted a loon image. Basswood is a fantastic wood for pyrography and its light colour and tight grain mean a great contrast with darkened tones. Here's the loon image I came up with...
Loon image on one blade
For the other blade, the group decided on an inspirational quote which was expanded to appropriate size using the Monotype Corsiva font on MS Word. I wish I could free hand, but I'm no Calligrapher. I'm embarassed to say I had no idea who the author of the quote was (Harvey Firestone, founder of Firestone Tire Co.) but my excuse is that I spend more time paddling on the water than driving all day on premium brand rubber tires.
The group's inspirational quote
After varnishing with 5 coats of Glossy Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane (sanding between each coat with 0000 Fine Steel Wool) I used some tan coloured leather lace to tie 3-lead-5-bight decorative Turk’s Head knots for drip rings. These were sealed in place with a little more varnish to prevent the leather from swelling when it gets wet.
The unvarnished and varnished pics
Leather Turk's Head drip ring - unvarnished
Kind of interesting given my Turkish heritage that absolutely no one in Turkey has worn a turban since 1826. That year, Sultan Mahmut II banned the turban as a symbol of growing religious authority and replaced it with the more "modern" Fez which in turn was later banned by Ataturk as a symbol of corrupt feudalism of the Ottoman era. Today only tacky tourists and traditional ice cream vendors in touristy areas walk around with these scarlet monstrosities. On my last visit to the homeland back in '06, I spent some quality peaceful time exploring neglected Ottoman graveyards that were off the tourist trail. Ottoman headstones are amazing works of art with elaborate stone carvings written in the poetic (but now a forgotten old Ottoman Script). I had been studying Ottoman Turkish for about a year before my trip just so I could translate the various inscriptions all over Istanbul. Interesting that each headstone is decorated with replicas of the the headgear of the deceased as a sign of rank and position in society. You could tell who died before 1826 (Turbaned gravestone) with those who passed away after (Fezzed headstones) with those who died in the Republican era (Plain grave marker). If anyone cares to know, there's a Flickr Group devoted to this esoteric artform called Mezar Taslari with some interesting shots submitted by members.Anyway, I digress...Designing and working on this paddle has been a rewarding experience, especially since it was commissioned for a well deserving recipient who'll hopefully enjoy it during his retirement.
Posing with the work before it's off to its new owner
By the way, if any reader cares to read the previous postings on this paddle, check out Part 1 and Part 2.
Thursday, 23 February 2017
Context How to paddle a 3 person canoe
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Tuesday, 21 February 2017
3 Household Tips for a Safe and Clean Home
We’ve all seen the adverts on TV telling us to make sure our smoke alarms are working properly and we all think to ourselves “ours is probably fine” – but you may be surprised to know that on average only one in 3 households have a working alarm on every floor of their homes.
With that in mind, in this article I intend to give you 3 household tips for a safe and clean home, all of which are problems that can easily be avoided and therefore making our homes a safer place.
Check our smoke alarms work
“Smoke alarms were absent from the fire area in 37 per cent of dwelling fires (16,400 fires). Of the total of 306 dwelling fires fatalities in the Great Britain in 2010-11, 112 (37 per cent) of these fatalities were in fires where there was no smoke alarm present, and a further 76 fatalities (25 per cent) where a smoke alarm was present but did not operate.”
I’m sure you’ll agree that these are shocking figures to read. The worst part about it is we see so many deaths each year that could be avoided by simply checking our fire alarms work on each and every floor of our homes. It’s pointless having a smoke alarm if you don’t know it works - taking a couple of minutes every six months to check your fire alarm could potentially be the difference between life and death.
If you know you will forget simply set yourself a reminder on your phone or leave a note on your calendar - and just to be safe you could even replace your everyday alkaline batteries for some lithium ten year lifelong batteries, this could be a blessing in disguise for you.
Clean your stove and utensils
On the hygiene front so many of us do the obvious things such as cleaning our toilet or cleaning the chopping board, yet so many of us leave our stove after use but we don’t think about the many bacteria that is then attracted and living on it.
The solution is simple, clean your stove straight after use - It will only take a few minutes but it could save you getting unwanted stomach bugs. While it is fairly unlikely you will become really ill from it, but you could be leaving your home at risk of a potential fire once again due to build-up of fats and oils from food.
As well as your stove remember to clean your drip pans and all cooking utensils well - it is also crucial you replace these every couple of years, especially when your pans become stained as it’s highly unlikely they will come clean again
Take some time to clean underneath your fridge
As well as sweeping away bits of food debris that gathers underneath a fridge in a kitchen that can attract mice - very few people know this but underneath your fridge is a cooling fan along with a set of coils which need to be cleaned at least every year. The coils looks a grate or a radiator and their function is to remove heat from within the inside and that heat is then dissipated through a radiator like appliance, this is located at the bottom of the fridge.
The reason for cleaning this appliance is that if you don’t clean those coils you cannot expect them to function properly and they will fail to give off heat as a efficiently as a consequence, creating issues with overheating.
To clean them simply unplug your fridge and locate the grate like coils, and clean with a long thistle brush, and get the vacuum cleaner out to clear any lint, pet hair and food from the coils.
This article was provided by Ryan Hirst who writes helpful guides and tips for Eurofit Directon their blog
Friday, 10 February 2017
Belizean Dugouts 3 Construction Details
The dugout canoes of Belize are just as diverse in their construction details as they are in hull form -- a subject we addressed in the previous post in this series.
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| Leo Lewis, dugout canoe builder of Hopkins, Belize (click any image to enlarge) |
Although Belize was "settled" by Europeans as a logging station for mahogany, Leo did all his building in yemeri, another common Central American hardwood. (Two similar species are present: Vochysia guatemalensis and V. hondurensis.) According to a leaflet from the US Dept. of Agriculture Forest Service, "Heights up to 160 feet and diameters of 3 to 4 feet are frequently attained. The boles are straight and clear." The wood is typically straight-grained but occasionally has an interlocked grain. Although it works easily, it is very subject to rot when in contact with the ground, and it is readily attacked by marine borers. (More on yemeri here.)
Many years ago, Leo would harvest trees 2.5 to 3 feet in diameter within a mile or so of Hopkins, right on the coastal plain, but more recently, he had to travel to the nearby mountains for trunks of suitable size. He used yemeri for the hull, the added strakes, and for frames and floors on the canoes that had them. (Most of the dugouts we observed had no internal strength members other than thwarts.) He says using the same wood ensures that everything will swell and shrink at the same rate, although this reasoning seems questionable, since the grain in frames and floors is at right angles to the grain in the hull and strakes, and one would not expect it to move to move equally in both directions.
After the hull was hollowed, it was filled with sea water to soften, then sticks were inserted to spread or expand it to the desired width. Frames and floors were then inserted and the spreader sticks removed. Although I neglected to clarify the matter, it seems probable that strakes were added after the hull was spread but before frames were installed. The fastenings that I observed were nails, driven from the inside, through the frames and into the hull or strakes. When required by their length, the nails were clenched over so that their points re-entered the wood.
Let's look at some construction details.
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| A Leo Lewis dugout canoe with five pairs of partial frames and two floors -- an uncommon amount of framing for a Belizean dugout. We found great variety in the attachment of thwarts, and this single boat exhibits three different methods. The one in the foreground is held solidly in place, sitting on risers nailed to pairs of vertical cleats on each side and held down from above by wooden brackets, also nailed to the cleats. The midships thwart is loose, held in place only by friction. The one in the background is only partially secured by brackets on top, which are nailed directly into the hull or the strakes. It does not rest on cleats or risers. |
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| Where there framing in the prior image provided transverse strength, the short partial frames in this dugout serve only to support the strakes. There are no floor timbers. |
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| The majority of dugouts in Hopkins have no internal framing, and the thwarts -- if they are nailed in place -- provide the only transverse support. |
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| The false stem curves all the way to the bottom, its end butting against the end of the false keel. Note also the deck, which is plywood. |
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| In contrast, the false sternpost on another canoe runs straight from top to bottom, while the false keel butts against its forward surface. The canoe's deck is solid lumber. |
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| A few canoes had large, removable plywood decks that seemed to fit directly behind the small, permanently installed bow deck. This might have provided a bit of protection against boarding waves, or might have served as a fish-processing platform. This canoe has an unusual number of thwarts in closely-spaced pairs, the reason for which is unknown. The next-to-last thwart shows yet another method of support: it sits on a horizontal cleat nailed into the hull or strakes, with no capturing bracket above. |
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| Few of the dugout canoes in Hopkins have wide strakes like this derelict one. |
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| More common were two or, as shown here, three narrow strakes, topped by a gunwale cap, all of them edge-nailed. |
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| This was the only canoe we saw sheathed with fiberglass, which covered it inside and out. We found this boat in Monkey River Town, in the Toledo District. All other canoes shown here were in Hopkins, Stann Creek District. |
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